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Sounds like the set for a joke, but I was met at the airport by two Afghans who work with a friend of mine in the logistics business.
Kabul International is a busy airport. Several regional airlines run daily flights around Afghanistan and between international destinations like Dubai and New Delhi.
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| JD outside the old terminal at Kabul International |
The baggage claim system in the new terminal works well and as an airport, it could compare with smaller, regional airports in places like Topeka, KS.
I was met by two local Afghans who took me on a driving tour of Kabul and then on to Bagram.
JD is short for Jawad, he is a Hazar, an ethnic group in the north/central part of Iraq.
And Haji is Haji because he has made the Haj. Haji also fought with the Taliban for a few years before going into the logistics business with a few western expats
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| JD (left) and Haji (right) |
We took the scenic route, winding through Kabul from the airport to the Intercontinental Hotel, where we had lunch with a friend of mine from Iraq who is working with NDI running a team of election monitors.
The drive in a regular Toyota 4-Runner was a thrill. No armor, no weapons, just three guys driving across town--but that isn't what made it a thrill--Kabul is a relatively safe city.
Afghans love playing chicken on the pot-hole strewn roads which lack lane markings or any of the conventions of western roads. And Haji is one fearless Pashtun.
I'm beginning to think a traffic accident is going to kill me before enemy action.
After winding through Kabul, we arrived at our first stop.
The Intercontinental Hotel is one step away from being an armed garrison and has a spectactular view of the city.
Several NGOs have turned it into their HQ.
Afghan Military, private security, Afghan politicians, diplomats, western reporters and election observers all mix in the hotels cafe's and common areas.
It was good to catch up with my friend and talk about the election.
The Afghan voting system is very rare. In fact I had never heard of such a thing until it was explained to me today. I'm not even sure if I can describe it yet.
But it looks like campaign season. Signs are everywhere. Candidates are advertising.
Karzai signs are everywhere. The national candidates are all running negative campaigns. No one has a positive agenda. Much of the politics is based on ethnicity and tribal loyalty so the national candidates are trying to build ethnic/tribal coalitions.
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| Posters for Karzai's reelection line many of the main thoroughfares in Kabul |
In my talks with the election monitors, the key area of fraud is that there is no centralized registration list. A few corrupt poll workers could throw a provincial election. The bright spot is that the candidates have embraced the concept of poll watchers to keep things on the up and up.
After a buffet lunch of Afghan fare we got back in the Toyota headed north through a gorgeous valley to Bagram Airfield, a Soviet era base.
The ancient city of Bagram was founded by Alexander the Great and I can guess why he picked the location--a fertile valley surrounded by mountains.
As we left the city, the road narrowed, to a twisty ribbon of asphalt where Haji was even more determined to win every game of chicken.
The entry into Bagram Airfield was very smooth thanks to Lt. Wade of the staff of the Public Affairs Detachment at Bagram.
Next stop...Jalalabad.
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